The beauty landscape has undoubtedly shifted in the last two years and attendees flocked to Bologna to get a first-hand account of the transformation as well as new market trends, products, and of course, packaging.
Gianpiero Calzolari, president of BolognaFiere, expressed pride in this year’s exhibition results despite the current “complicated scenario” of global events.
“The exhibitors highlighted the impressive professional quality of visitors and the high number of international operators,” he commented. “It was very exciting to see the aisles of the fair come alive with operators from all over the world, concluding orders and discussing new projects. We hope to have offered companies and professionals a profitable experience.”
He additionally noted that European attendees represented the main area of origin, but attendance from Asia and the Americas exceeded expectations, as did attendees from African and Middle East markets.
Enrico Zannini, general manager of BolognaFiere Cosmoprof, declared this edition of Cosmoprof to be extremely positive. “Our exhibitors have finally met buyers and distributors from all over the world in person,” he said.
To accommodate companies unable to attend the show due to restrictions related to the pandemic and the Russian/Ukraine war, a match-making system called Cosmoprof My Match was made available during and after the fair. “Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna has strengthened its role as business partner for professionals, and our goal is to guarantee a continuous and performing networking platform,” Zannini said.
The exhibition portion of Cosmoprof was home to several standout new product launches.
Anisa International showcased two skin care developments at this year’s Cosmoprof expo: The Bean and Pinnacle Body Brush.
The Bean, named for its kidney shape, is made of cooling zinc alloy and designed to de-puff, smooth and contour the skin around the delicate eye area. It has an ergonomic, lightweight handle and a flat base for easy and hygienic upright storage.
The Pinnacle Body Brush pairs Anisa’s patented triangular Pinnacle brush head shape with a short, easy-to-grip handle that also has a flat base for upright storage. The brush features a large, triangular domed head shape that’s densely packed with fibers for the luxurious application of all body products like makeup and skin care, body shimmers, bronzers and SPF.
In addition to unveiling a new brand identity in celebration of its 60th anniversary, Baralan leveraged its show presence to spotlight new, innovative and sustainable packaging solutions including DEA, its airless system that has no internal plastic container, making it the first airless system in which the filled product is directly in contact with its glass container.
Berlin Packaging announced at Cosmoprof that it will be expanding its beauty business to position itself as a global player with one-stop-shop capabilities. The announcement came just three months after acquiring Premi SpA. This rebranding was realized in a minimalistic and contemporary new logo, that was designed to reflect the company’s continuous evolution.
The company also presented refillable and sustainable prestige solutions including the Makeup in Glass collection and the new Airglass Jar and Foamy 150 ml.
HCP Packaging launched a variety of new items, including its new Affinity Atmospheric Pump and Affinity Airless Pump, as well as the Fusion Round skincare collection which fuses high-quality performance with endless versatility with the option for customization using HCP’s extensive decoration capabilities. The company additionally focused on planet-friendly packaging solutions with new ready-to-go refill and mono-material designs.
HCT by kdc/one
HCT by kdc/one showcased its turnkey formulating and packaging capabilities with a variety of colorful products including a turnkey Complexion Color Collection comprised of formulas and packaging configurations for foundations, serums and primers, a cream blush stick and a compact. The company also displayed a Lip Color Collection, and Eyes Color Collection with palettes, pots and glass tubes for powder, cream and liquid eyeshadows.
On the skincare side, HCT by kdc/one’s Lab Series Collection and Bridge Products Skin Collection spanned foam pump cleaners and serums, serum sticks and other skin treatments.
After undergoing a series of strategic acquisitions and capital initiatives to grow its footprint around the world, kdc/one made its debut at Cosmoprof 2022. “We have built a network and team designed to enhance the experience of our customers. Part of that experience is our ability to anticipate the needs of our partners while monitoring industry trends and the macro-dynamics of this changing world,” said Nicholas Whitley, CEO of kdc/one. “Our strategy has always been to lead with innovation, and the past few years have seen us responsibly add to our capabilities and increase our geographic footprint to better serve both new and existing partners.”
As a partner to prestige and emerging brands, kdc/one has leveraged several key acquisitions (including HCT, Benchmark Laboratories and Aerofil) to help build capabilities in developing an end-to-end solution by way of packaging design capabilities, bespoke formulation expertise and aerosols. The company showcased a number of innovations at the show, including novel mineral-based SPF formulas, high performance hair care for various textures, innovative waterless solutions to capture conservation efforts, sensorial and transformative skincare, and low VOC aerosol formulas.
One of the highlights from Kemas at Cosmoprof Bologna 2022 was the launch of Limex, a new material that consists of at least 60% limestone and is complemented with a specialty coating of Musashi BioPaint.
Limex is a blend of limestone (CaCO3) and PP binders, and is described to be durable, sturdy, heavier (more luxurious), long lasting and recyclable. Kemas said BioPaint represents an innovative way to decorate its components while helping preserve the environment with the reduction of toxic solvents and additives. BioPaint utilizes up to 25% of renewable resources and reduces the component’s carbon footprint. Like most fossil fuel-based resins, both Limex and BioPaint can be molded as the spraying and curing process is similar to most conventional applications. Limex packaging coated with BioPaint was a finalist in the awards program at Cosmoprof Bologna, thanks to its sustainability and contribution to the reduction of global carbon emissions.
The XPaper paper airless dispenser by Lumson was recognized with an award in the Skincare & Haircare Packaging Technology category at Cosmopack Awards 2022.
Already a winner of the 2021 ADI Design Index Award for Innovation and in the running for the Compasso d’Oro 2022, the paper airless option wasn’t only judged to be one of the most innovative packaging solutions, but also emerged as “the perfect combination of smart design, safety, and advanced functionality with a sustainable touch.” The possibility of separating the plastic components from the paper ones once the product inside is used up makes the packaging easily recyclable and consistent with circular economy principles: reduction, reuse and recovery.
Matteo Moretti, Lumson president and the creator of XPaper, expressed pride in the award because it affirms the importance of sustainable innovation in the cosmetic industry. “The innovation that XPaper brings is even more significant, because it places environmental awareness and eco-design in the spotlight, combining them with safety and functionality—key elements in today and tomorrow’s beauty sector,” he said. “Once the product has run out, you can separate the dispenser from the bottle in paper and send it down the right recycling chain.”
Moretti also pointed to its safety and creativity. “Like all of our airless dispensers with pouches, it protects the product from the risk of contamination with air or other outside agents and can be customized with various printing technologies, becoming a unique product that reflects a brand’s aesthetic and philosophy,” he said.
Pennelli Faro exhibited two applicators that are the result of its most recent research and development activity: Solo and Fless. Solo is a mono-material brush made of synthetic fiber from recycled water bottles. It contains no metal and boasts a zero-carbon footprint because it uses 100% renewable energy in the production process and can be disposed of with no need to separate components beforehand.
Fless was billed to be the first flexible brush that naturally follows the face lines and fits intuitively in the user’s hand.
Pibiplast also used its Cosmoprof platform to unveil a new high-tech brand identity plus launch new concepts and collections. The Italian developer and manufacturer of plastic packaging for makeup and personal care products unveiled its Magneto mascara and the Dual Push bottle prototypes, which were developed in collaboration with Hfarm in response to the rapid prototyping needs.
Magneto is a compact, functional mascara that can easily be used one-handed thanks to a magnetic sliding applicator system. Its practical, ergonomic characteristics make the Magneto easy to use, even for consumers with specific mobility needs. Magneto has “an inclusive, genderless design” and is billed to be an ideal configuration for Gen Z consumers.
Dual Push is Pibiplast’s new refillable packaging solution for consumers who care about the environment but don’t want to sacrifice the convenience of having their favorite skincare product always at their side. Dual Push includes a travel-size version in the pack that can be separated and used for home an on the go.
Pibiplast also presented Beauty Box, a minimalist, elegant case that contains a series of products for complete daily care of the face and eyes, skin cleansing and treatments for morning and evening. According to the company, the configuration was designed in synergy with manufacturers, allowing brands to significantly reduce development and launch times for their new cosmetic products.
Finally, Pibiplast launched a number of new packaging lines including Youniversal for skin and face care formulas, rPE Zero tubes and bottles for bath and shower applications, Beauty+ bottles with a modern design and high-performance closure systems for multi-purpose skin and SPF needs, and a customizable Formulae line designed with a nod to “pharmaceutics” for the practical dosage and delivery of formulas.
WWP Beauty featured Beauty with Purpose, a sustainable service program and a suite of new packaging collections made with innovative and sustainable materials as part of the new program at the show. The program supports the company’s larger sustainability missions such as Carbon Neutrality, Zero Waste, Circular Beauty and Social Responsibility, which were represented throughout WWP Beauty’s booth with a space that fused nature and technology.
“The Beauty with Purpose is a customized, solution-driven service offered to new and existing customers looking to transform their brands to include more mindful formulations, packaging, and accessories that are clean, sustainable, ethical, inclusive and diverse,” comments Jennifer Adams, WWP Beauty’s CEO. “This transformative process is at the forefront of sustainable innovations and technologies, utilizing green chemistry, eco-smart designs, new sustainable materials, transparent sourcing and supply chain management. Through this service, brands will leverage WWP Beauty’s partnership to make a positive and purposeful impact on the planet with the ultimate goal of creating Beauty with Purpose.”
WWP’s new collections spanned a 70% Ocean Plastic tube; a plastic-free, sugarcane biopolymer called Nature2Need; Eastman Cristal One Renew Resin with 50% molecular recycled content; Eastman Cristal Renew Resin, a glass-like clear resin with 50% molecular recycled content (RPETG 50%); and Sustainable Opulence, a deluxe collection of crystal-clear, and weighted components molded in eco-friendly, BPA-free IPET resin.
Cosmoprof Seminars Focus on the Future
Cosmoprof educational events are a popular complement to the exhibition fair, and some noteworthy seminars addressed the changing consumer landscape.
At the Packaging and Product Design 2.0 event, speakers including representatives from the Pantone Color Institute and Euromonitor International discussed how next generation beauty products and packaging will have new relationships with colors, textures, personalization and technology. A separate presentation focused on how product design functionality would emerge as a key driver for beauty shoppers, juxtaposing pragmatism and pleasure as the “world sets out to regain pleasure while showing resilience.”
In a Cosmo Talks panel discussion session, beauty executives discussed the reimagined U.S. beauty landscape and how the increasingly blurred delineation between offline and online retailers in the prestige and mass sectors are giving rise to new consumer expectations of convenience, experience and connection. The panel also discussed how to navigate in a post-pandemic beauty environment where one-third of all beauty purchases are made on Amazon and the “unwritten rules that guided distribution decisions have been thrown out the window as DTC brands realize that they need brick-and-mortar partners to achieve scale.”
The comprehensive Cosmo Trends Future View 2022-2027 seminar, presented by BeautyStreams, gave attendees a glimpse into socio-political, digital, technology and sustainability viewpoint trends poised to shape the future and impact business. Among the highlights under the umbrella of “Joyology,” a theme relating to creating good vibes together:
Age of Ethics – rising sustainable and philanthropic values.
Metaversal Living – the influence of the digital impact.
Gender Freedom – letting go of stereotypes and gender labeling.
Holistic Health – merging science with ancestral rituals for healthy aging and self-care.
Intersectional Individuals – inclusivity, diversity and hyper-personalization.